Showing posts with label Berlin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Berlin. Show all posts

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Instead Of Berlin? See Under Zoo Aretz Zoo

My father left Berlin for Palestine in 1934, he was only 21 year old and was able to obtain a certificate since the firm  he worked for relocated  to Israel. The rest of his family was not so lucky, his parents and one brother were killed by the Nazis, and another brother survived the war but remained permanently scarred.
Then in 2000, my daughter decided to study music in Berlin. It was right after she had attended a music festival  in  Weimar, Germany. It was part of  the newly founded East West Divan by Daniel Barenboim and Edward Said.
I got the first reminder that, sixty years later, Berlin was still not just any other city even before she even moved there.  My daughter  showed my father the location of her future student housing. Looking at the address, my father realized that it was the same address as his old school. Indeed once she moved into the dorm, she sent a photo of the memorial statue indicating that this was the site where the Jewish School, Adas Israel ,used to be.
In the five years that my daughter stayed there I visited Berlin several times. In 2000 the city had not yet become a desired destination for Israelis. It was still a relatively sleepy town, at least on its east side where it was dark and empty at night and no one spoke English. Even the city’s landmark --Potsdamer Platz, had not been completed yet, and the government offices took their time moving into the new  capital.
Around the same time my father moved into a sheltered living. As we were packing  his belongings we found a pile of old letters from his family  back in Berlin. The letters dated from 1934, when my father left,  till 1939, when the family was forced out of Berlin. We knew about the letters  but my father never talked about them and I don’t remember   him looking at the letters. .
We decided to loan the letters to the Jewish Museum in Berlin, there is not that much material about domestic Jewish life in Berlin at that that time and the museum was excited to have them. The letters were transcribed (since my grandmother wrote in Gothic letters), typed out, and then translated into English (since I don't know German).
Nothing dramatic was described in the letters, but  they expressed  fear and despair. My grandparents hoped that my father, their oldest, son would be able to help. They urged him to write more and reproached him for not doing so. One brother thanked him for the books which he had sent from Palestine, and the other brother was grateful for the new suit that he had gotten from him. They all appreciated my father for all that he had sent and apologized for always needing more, they were proud people..
I read the letters only once, I couldn't look at them again. It wasn't that I had forgotten earlier about my family or about the Holocaust, but I thought that I was able to disconnect the old from the new. Yet after reading the letters Berlin was never the same for me.
Berlin is a great city, and right now it is also a metaphor for better opportunities and better life for young Israelis who are disillusioned with the situation here. Back in 1975, in similar circumstances, the great satirists of the time ( B. Michael, Hanoch Marmari,  Kobi Niv, Ephraim Sidon, and  Dudu Geva among others) produced a brilliant, and funny, book of social commentary: Zoo Aretz Zoo. One of their remedies was  that we'd all move to  New Zealand.  Perhaps we could use that as a metaphor instead of Berlin?

 The essay appeared in The Times Of Israel

Friday, July 11, 2014

Meanwhile in Berlin: Some Personal Recommendations

In 1996 I visited Berlin for the first time with my father. He has left that city in 1934 and until our visit hasn't been back. Although he was already 83, we walked everywhere together and he showed me his Berlin. Since then, I have returned many times, and here are some of my personal recommendations for things to see and to do in the city.   
1)      Staying-- I prefer the West, specifically the area around Ku'damm (short for Kurfürstendamm). It consists of the main shopping streets, and the Tauentzienstraße and Fasanenstraße, which are adjacent to the Ku'Damm. There are many small pensions in that area which offer a good room, with a lovely breakfast for a decent price.
2)       Walking--- is one of my favorite activities in Berlin. The area of Ku’damm is also within a walking distance to Potsdamer Platz and  even to Mitte through the beautiful Tiergarten.
3)   Touring by bus--  The number 100 bus is a great way to see the city and to get to the East side.  Its route was created after the reunification of Germany and it connects East and West Berlin passing through many of the sightseeing attractions.
4)      Museums--From the  more well-known ones I always go back to the Gemaldegallerie which is beautifully planned, and to the Egyptian museum with Nefretiti sculpture.
5)  Other favorite museums--A. The Berlin Musical Instrument Museum,where you get to hear the different and unusual instruments being played through the audio guide. B. The Kathe Kollwitz Museum which has the largest collections of works by the German artist Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945). C. The Bauhaus Archive Museum of Design, which has art pieces, items, documents and literature related to the Bauhaus School. D. The  Bröhan Museum which  is devoted to Art Nouveau, Art Deco and functionalism
6)      Short excursions-- A. To the quaint historic town Kopenick, which is situated at the confluence of the rivers Dahme and Spree in the south-east of of Berlin.  B. In Wannsee, The Lieberman Villa: the house of the painter Max Liberman is a lovely destination.
7)   Food-- In Berlin I usually eat Vietnamese food, which I hardly get in Israel: Pho, Summer Roll, and Banh.  Vietnamese  restaurants are usually very good, they are everywhere and are  inexpensive.   I also recommend the pizza and the atmosphere at 12 Apostel, there are two locations in the east and in the west, they have a lunch special.
Bon Voyage!
In the photo a sculpture by Kathe Kollwitz